An Insider’s Guide to Big Sur
In an increasingly AI world, Deetjen’s is as grounded as it gets. The Big Sur institution, which began construction in 1936, has stayed pretty much the same since its inception—and that’s the point. Matt Glazer, Deetjen’s executive director and general manager, came on in 2017 to help reopen the Inn and oversee its rehabilitation after mudslides destroyed parts of the property that same year. No stranger to natural disasters, the New Orleans native moved to Big Sur after Hurricane Katrina and is as committed as it gets to maintaining the area’s wonder. “To stay at Deetjen’s is to be immersed in the unique historic experience of the olden times of Big Sur,” Matt says. And that rare glimpse into the past is exactly what draws guests from around the globe each year—along with the hotel’s beloved homestyle food and arguably unrivaled tranquility. Deetjen’s even operates as a 501(c)3 nonprofit dedicated to preserving the 90-year-old site and its spot on the National Register of Historic Places.
Glazer gave us his inside view of Big Sur—not the glossy social media version, but his heartfelt way to take it all in. “In Big Sur we have limited resources, so a day in the life of a local is a day in the life of a tourist,” he says. “You're coming into our house and we're happy to have you.”
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Start the day with:
Once I get my kids to school, I love to stop at the Bodega at The Village and get an oat milk cappuccino before I make my way to Deetjen’s. The Village has the best espresso coffee service in Big Sur.
For the best breakfast:
Deetjen’s is world famous for our Eggs Benedict. You can add anything from Baker's Bacon to avocado. Also, our fluffy buttermilk pancakes and stuffed French toast. (Pro tip: You can get half orders, but they're not on the menu.) Our Chilaquiles was invented on Mother's Day two years ago, during a road closure when the bridge fell into the ocean. We were an island for a while and we made a home style, Mexican-inspired Chilaquiles. It became a local favorite. If I'm not having breakfast at Deetjen’s, then Ripplewood is a great place for a classic American breakfast. If there was a ’50s diner in Big Sur, it would be Ripplewood.
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For a locals’ lunch:
If I’m away [from Deetjen’s] for lunch I'll often be at the Big Sur Taphouse, next to the post office and the Big Sur Deli. It's a great place to find local people chatting it up on their lunch breaks, and a great place to hear about community events and what the locals are doing.
Shopping Big Sur:
The Phoenix Shop at Nepenthe has an amazing collection from all over the world of everything from art to books to jewelry. Mother Botanical & Shop is a really bespoke retail situation. It’s at Loma Vista next to where the Big Sur Bakery used to be. Really, really beautiful. Highly recommended. There's also a community art gallery at Loma Vista where four or five artists have their work. It's super cool and definitely worth the stop.
A tradition of arts:
The first three Fridays of July, there’s Big Sur StageKids where local kids do a Big Sur interpretation of a stage production and perform it at Big Sur Grange. They spend all summer making their costumes and working on it. The whole vibe around StageKids is super Big Sur. It takes from the tradition of the Big Sur Review that used to happen back in the ’60s and ’70s. It's irrelevant and super fun and I think it's Big Sur at its best.
Uniquely Big Sur experiences:
My personal favorite: The last Friday of every month there’s competitive karaoke at Fernwood and it's a super fun, great Big Sur experience. Sushi Jawn is currently happening. It’s a sushi food truck that is super seasonal. It’s currently popping up at Loma Vista. They’re amazing. And follow (((FolkYeah!))) for their productions in Big Sur. Those can really be spectacular at both Henry Miller Library and Fernwood and sometimes other venues that are really cool.
PM
For a special occasion dinner:
I’m biased, but Deetjen’s is hands down the best special occasion dinner spot in Big Sur. You know, Post Ranch Inn is gorgeous, and Ventana. But people in Big Sur, when it's time for them to go out for a celebration, they come to Deetjen’s. Candlelit dinner, quiet, big homestyle food, a really great wine list, and you can't beat the setting for romance.
Where to stay:
Deetjen’s isn't for everybody. We don't have Wi-Fi. We don't have cell phone service. We don't have TVs. We don't have telephones. We only have 20 rooms that are often booked ahead of time. It’s one of the nicer rustic experiences available. Glen Oaks also does a really great job. I think a secret that not many people know is that Fernwood has both a hotel and tent cabins down by the river. They're super cool.
Being a responsible visitor:
It’s not fun to sit in lines of traffic, or to find all of the beautiful places occupied by people who are only coming here because Instagram told them to. Big Sur really needs wise travelers, defined by knowing where they are and what they're seeking. Picking up trash, caring for the environment, and really being stewards of the place that they're visiting.
The quintessential Big Sur experience:
My answer to this question is so annoying, because people ask me all the time and I always say the best thing to do in Big Sur is to be in Big Sur. Put your phone away and just take it in. Find yourself breathing in the ocean, taking in the sites, noticing that you're somewhere really special. That could be discovered on a walk in the State Park, it could be discovered at the beach, or even just on the drive. And of course, pick up trash while you're doing it.
Finding inspiration:
It's the serenity from finding yourself alone on the cliffs on the edge of the world, that drives the most inspiration. To take in where the mountains meet the ocean. To put your feet in the river. To stare up the trunk of a redwood tree. That's what it means to be in Big Sur.
End the day with:
I like to climb in the river. I’m lucky enough to live very near Andrew Molera State Park where the river empties into the ocean. It’s a great way to take in the sunset and enjoy the moment.
Photos courtesy of Deetjen's
PLAN YOUR
DREAM DAY
- Deetjen’s
Big Sur, CA - The Village
Big Sur, CA - Ripplewood
Big Sur, CA - Big Sur Taphouse
Big Sur, CA - Phoenix Shop at Nepenthe
Big Sur, CA - Mother Botanical & Shop
Big Sur, CA - Big Sur Grange
Big Sur, CA - Fernwood
Big Sur, CA - Sushi Jawn
Big Sur, CA - Henry Miller Library
Big Sur, CA - Glen Oaks
Big Sur, CA - Andrew Molera State Park
Big Sur, CA
