From Tienda to Table: How El Charrito Became a Salinas Institution
Words by Marcos Cabrera
Photos by Kelsey Wisdom
On West Market Street in Salinas, there’s a particular kind of hello that floats over the counter: a wave from a familiar face, the hum of tortillas being hand-stretched in back, and the rhythm of a crew that moves like they’ve been in sync for decades.
The place is El Charrito—a Salinas staple with a soul as warm as its tortillas. But its story starts in 1981, when a family with big dreams bought a small Mexican grocery and began building something that would outlast generations and trends alike.
At first, it was about selling the basics—beans, masa, spices, and community staples—at a time when few local stores specialized in Mexican products and ingredients. In the back kitchen, Alex Moncada’s grandmother began turning those simple ingredients into something soulful.
Tortillas were pressed fresh every morning. One day, they decided to wrap them around carne asada and beans. On that first morning, they sold a single burrito—to a Pepsi delivery driver. Fast-forward to today, and those same burritos spark lunchtime lines that stretch out the door.
“My grandma was the heart,” says Moncada, a second-generation family member who helps manage El Charrito alongside other relatives. “She didn’t set out to build a restaurant—she just wanted to feed people the way she fed her own family. Everything we do still starts from that.”
Moncada has been part of the business’s new development phase. After a career in finance and hospitality—working in San Francisco banking, Los Angeles development, and with hospitality brand SBE—Moncada returned to Salinas during the pandemic to help strengthen and expand what his family began.
Along with his day-to-day co-management of the flagship Salinas store, he works with relatives who operate two Lala Grill locations in Monterey (known for their fresh California vibe, big salads, and brunch crowds), plus the upscale Alejandro’s restaurant in Monterey, and a second El Charrito operating out of the back of Alejandro’s during lunch. A third El Charrito and Lala Grill project is currently in the works in Marina.
The expansion began a decade ago, when the family launched a strategic transformation. They streamlined the West Market Street space, gave the façade a facelift, and reimagined El Charrito as a modern quick-service concept—with online ordering, tighter branding, and fresh energy. But the heart stayed the same.
“It feels old-school without trying to be,” Moncada says. “The building’s old, sure, but the energy? That’s the team.”
The team, Moncada insists, is the heartbeat. Some employees have been there since 1990. One has been rolling burritos since day one.
On a busy Friday, you’ll find up to 14 burrito artists behind the counter—each with muscle memory and pride baked into every move. There’s no official A-team; just a culture that values loyalty, trust, and flavor.
And those tortillas? They’re not just good—they’re a whole craft. A dedicated crew arrives around 4 a.m. to hand-stretch each one, adjusting the recipe daily like artists fine-tuning their medium.
“We don’t take shortcuts,” Moncada says. “It’s science and art—like a perfect baguette or croissant, but with soul.”
As El Charrito continues to thrive, the family’s next chapter is unfolding. It’s soon-to-open Marina project will unite both worlds: a shared kitchen with two storefronts, El Charrito on one side and Lala Grill on the other. Moncada said the menus will overlap about 60 percent, but each keeps its personality. Different doors, same backbone: hire good people, taste everything, stay picky, and lead with love.
The Moncada family story is stitched into Salinas itself. Their roots trace to Michoacán, Mexico and, like many families who came north, they found comfort in food and neighbors.
December traditionally meant tamales and pozole—an all-hands tradition where kids woke up early to help feed the community. Moncada’s childhood memories are rich with flavor: calabaza con piloncillo (candied pumpkin simmered with unrefined sugar and cinnamon) and crispy buñuelos dusted in sweetness.
“Those dishes take me right back,” he says. “They remind me why we do what we do.”
Moncada doesn’t romanticize the work. “It’s never going to be perfect,” he says. “It’s a discipline. You show up every day, taste, adjust, and take care of people.”
That care runs deep—from longtime employees to customers who grew up on El Charrito burritos. It’s the kind of neighborhood loyalty money can’t buy, built on repetition, pride, and a touch of spice. <img src="https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/6457f19f1c1e1601e2c9c3f6/6487a9355b63a6818c705cea_CC-Icon--20.svg"alt="CC"height="20" width="20">
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Marcos Cabrera is a writer born and raised in Salinas. He was the features reporter for the Monterey County Herald and is the founder of the Monterey County Youth Media Project.